Day 8 - Tuscany

Day 8 - Tuscany
Early morning Orvieto market in the piazza, with artichokes and tomatoes piled high. We bought some wild strawberries for the road, and then hopped in the car for the drive to Siena, in Tuscany. We did make a stop along the way in the hilltown of Multipulciano, famed for it's Vino Nobile red wine. Getting to the piazza center of this town is a good steep climb, but we were rewarded with a free wine tasting. And a second, on our way back down the hill. We bought some wine and cheese for happy hours to come, and got back on the road to Siena. We arrived, and unlike our previous hotels, this one is very modern and upscale, but outside the fortress wall of the city, so it was back to public transportation, and a bus into the center of Siena. This is the town the crayon color is named for, and every building is seemingly colored that burnt siena crayola color we are all familiar with. It was later in the afternoon by the time we got here, and with limited time for "tourist" attractions we bought tickets to climb the clock tower in the center of town and explore the civic museum. We climbed the 800 steps to the top of the tower for a commanding view of all of Siena



....and then the rain started. Actually, a full scale thunderstorm. The tower is actually closed to tourists during storms, but of course Italy is chaotic, so it's not like
anyone was following the weather and could warn us not to climb to the top of the tower (and did I mention that it's built with no real foundation, and it's a wonder that it stands at all?) So here we are, at the top of an insecure tower, seeing some lightening striking in the distance.



We made a hasty descent, surrounded by the sounds of the storm. Luckily, we still had an hour left to explore the museum. This place is famous for it's fresco of good versus bad government, with the "good" government in bright light, with happy dancing ladies in the town, and business proceeding in an orderly fashion, and "bad government" represented by a horned moneylender and bloodbath in the streets. After the museum, we still had some time to kill before the rain let up, and we explored a free art exhibit in the covered area surrounding the central clock tower courtyard. This area was also popular with the Siena youth, who were blasting their boombox emo music and playing that game where you slap each others hands, trying to pull your hand away before your opponent can slap it. Some stupid youthful activities are apparently universal. (the true youthful experience in all of Italy, however, is soccer. Give some kids even 3 feet of space, and and impromptu soccer game will commence).

Luckily the rain stopped, and were able to wander Siena undeterred.

 Our dinner was in a place renowned for pasta. The Italian in charge spoke very little English, and based on scant information pretty much ordered the meal for you. Lucky for me, the lack of meat aspect was communicated, and I was served a delicious homemade spinach tortellini. Unluckily for Rich, my vegetarian wishes extended to him too, and he was given no opportunity to order on his own. Still, it was good food, and a true Italian experience that didn't feel put together for tourists. Kat's gelato stop on the way out of town prevented us from catching the last bus, so it was a long walk back to the hotel. But nothing compared to our Amalfi coast wanderings.

If only the diet here wasn't so carb heavy, I'm sure I'd come home 20 pounds lighter from all the walking.

Day 7 - Driving to Orvieto

More travel today - sometimes it feels like all we do is buy public transportation tickets, which in Italy you have to buy at a tobacco shop. We are constantly on the lookout for tobacco shops, which is strange for us dedicated non-smokers! A funicular to the port, a ferry to Sorrento, a bus to the main level of Sorrento...and then finally, freedom in the form of a VW Golf. Today we picked up our rental car - and we appear to have been upgraded from some sort of mini Italian Lanzia to a VW Golf.

Our (large, oversized, American) luggage fit, which was good news. Then we hit the roads. When I asked Rich about his day of driving, he said "Italians are XXXXing crazy"...and I concur. No spaghetti sized inch of road is too small for a scooter to try and pass you, and once you hit the main large highway, the "Autostrada", you run into what we've heard referred to as the Italian straddle...the highway is two lanes, but really the Italians just hover over the middle line waiting for an oppportunity to pass. There are lots of automated speed traps here, but our GPS is really paying off, as it seems to know where these are, and warns us accordingly. Though Rich was rarely over the limit - but the many Porches and Fiats that pass us must surely come home to many a traffic violation fine. A high point of driving is the that the Italians love eating too much to relegate rest stop food to fast food...the "Auto Grills" as they are called have all the typical courses any true Italian would expect. We sat near people eating T-bone steaks with all the appropriate sides. Here is the shared lunch we opted for


- actually quite tasty. It was about 4 hours (with stop) from Sorrento to Orvieto, where we are

stopped for the night. Orvieto's claim to fame is an incredible church that is covered in the most elaborate gothic artwork you can imagine, and houses a holy relic claimed to be a miracle that turned bread into the body of Christ (corpus christi).

The town itself is Medieval, and we've certainly noticed an increase in the lack of English speakers and tourists. It's actually pretty quiet here, which is a nice change from the hubbub on the Amalfi coast.

 The cuisine changed too - from an emphasis on fish and pizza in the Neopolitan south, to a truffle and wild boar-based cuisine here in Umbria. We sampled both (you can guess who ate what....) and were very happy with our meal tonight. (And there was more gelato as well - today we took it as Italians do, earlier in the evening). I think it will be an early tonight - tommorow, we do some driving into Tuscany.

Day 6 - Blue Grotto and Capri

An early ferry to Capri Island, this time to stay for the night. Have I mentioned yet that dragging luggage on cobblestone streets with crazy scooter drivers practically running you over is a bit stressful? Once on Capri, though, it was easier – still cobblestones, but mostly you don’t have to share the narrow alleys with bus drivers, scooters and the 3 wheel delivery trucks that are everywhere here in Italy. Capri is upscale – the funicular from the port dumps you off at Prada and Ferragamo. We made it to our hotel, and met the nicest Italian so far, who gave us a nice orientation of the island, and offered us some nice cold lemon soda – very welcome, as it was pretty hot today.

We’re staying in Capri, but much of the tourist action is in Anacapri– the other town on the island. So another bus, pizza in town, and then a ride up the chair lift (single file) to the top of Mt. Solaro, the highest point in Capri. The view was spectacular (the chairlift? not so much…)

But we didn’t perish, and Rich’s hat survived the journey (unlike, apparently, many other visitors, as the ground beneath the chair lift was littered with lost headgear).We walked to a nice garden for some photos

, and then headed down to the Blue Grotto. We already knew that it was possible to swim into the grotto after hours and avoid the tourist trap prices and lines, but our hotel manager tipped us off that because full season here isn’t yet going, the boat drivers cut out early So we were able to swim into the grotto around 4 pm instead of 6, and the light was great to experience this natural wonder. Once inside the cave, the water is spectacularly blue. And we had to completely to ourselves, at least for awhile. The pictures don’t do it justice, but here’s a shot of Kat floating in the grotto.

Back to Capri town, and we encountered a parade – actually the Festival of Saint Vincent. All of the local nuns, church leaders, and some sort of band paraded through Capri carrying a big silver saint.
Typical of Italy, it was chaotic and disorganized, but very enjoyable (and for Rich, who doesn’t much care for parades, blessedly brief). A nice dinner in a family-owned restaurant with delicious antipasti, and some reconnaissance to discover the best gelato (actually, Rich followed some nuns, and indeed, much to my surprise, they led us straight to a gelato shop). Finally, a fireworks display over the sea. Another lovely day in Italy.

Day 5 - Captain Rich

We were successful in securing a vessel for the day from Renaldo and Maria – they even provided a cooler for a picnic lunch. Captain Rich set off for a tour around Capri. The Mediterranean, at least here, is surprisingly calm, and so very blue. We saw some spectacular scenery, as the coastline of Capri is full of craggy peaks and rocks. We also some spectacular lines to enter the famed “Blue Grotto” of Capri, with tour boats full of tourists lined up for their hour wait for their 5 minute 25 euro experience in the grotto.

 I haven’t mentioned before, but Italy is full of chaos – in the driving, in the hours that restaurants and shops keep, but also in the rules of engagement for waiting in lines. This is a country where being aggressive pays off.

We took a swim in the sea, and discovered that we’re very buoyant here…no need for life jackets (which is good, because another part of the Italian experience is lax regulations concerning personal safety – not sure we had any life preservers on board). After our swim, it was off to the Faraglioni Rocks, also famous in Capri. Rich successfully navigated our boat through the opening in one of the rock formations, giving us a view from up close inside of the rocks.

Back in Sorrento for our final dinner, we found a nice family restaurant, and dined al fresco, serenaded by a trio singing the famous Italian songs by streetlight. All we needed was to share some spaghetti, and it would have been a scene from Lady and the Tramp. Some late night gelato (and yes, it’s every day if you’re keeping track) and it was off to bed.

Day 4 -Pompeii

Rich says I have to tell you that he let me sleep in this morning….til 9 am! Yesterday’s hiking took its toll. Then we caught the local train to Pompeii where we spent the day navigating this incredible archeological site, preserved by the lava from the volcanic eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD We spent a couple of hours looking at the temples, houses, brothels and bakeries of ancient Pompeii, preserved remarkably well. You can even get a look at their plumbing, with lead imported from Britannia (predating 79 AD of course) leading from the aqueducts to the residences. Here is a picture of the ruts created by the chariots traveling these busy Pompeii streets



After Pompeii, we walked down to the port in Sorrento, where Rich spent some time interviewing boat rental salesmen. Tomorrow we plan to rent a small boat and take a trip around the Island of Capri, and look at the coastline from the water. Now, I intend to head out to dinner (and hopefully gelato #4)

Day 3 - Amalfi Coast

51,911 - that’s the number of steps I took today, according to my pedometer. Just so you know, on average I get about 7000, my high for New York City 2 years ago was around 29,000. So today, I’ve done A LOT of walking. But the scenery does keep you pressing on! Our day began with a bus ride to Amalfi, down the famed Amalfi coast. The cliffs by the sea are spectacular, and it was nice that we didn’t have to do the driving on these crazy narrow roads, especially with crazy Italian scooter drivers. Amalfi is much smaller than Sorrento, but very scenic – seemingly built right into the hills. Rich particularly enjoyed the fountain.


But Kat got him back with Italian Viagra.




We did a little hike above the town to some remnants of the papermills that used to supply paper for the Pope. Then we walked from Amalfi to the next town, Atrani, through narrow corridors built into the cliffs. These small corridors literally had people living on both sides, like an apartment building. Hard to describe, but something I’ll never forget. Atrani was even smaller than Amalfi – a nice lunch in the piazza there, and then some walking by the sea. Then it was back to Amalfi where we picked up a ferry to Positano. This is yet another town perched on the cliffs of the Amalfi coastline, with more upscale shops, and steeper climbs.


From there, a bus from Positano back to home base Sorrento – too full for seats, so we had to stand the whole way, practically surfing the crazy windy road back to Sorrento. More gelato walking back to the hostel – I’m 3 for 3, and hoping the gelato a day habit continues.

More walking around town, and a fine dinner up the hill overlooking the bay.

Day 2-Sorrento

Sunny Sorrento

The day started with a Kat getting in trouble again (Day 1 brought trouble at the hotel when I apparently used the wrong outlet to plug in my laptop to compose Day 1 of the blog). Day 2’s troubles involved stopping into the Drug Store to buy some snacks for the train. (Yes the drugstore – like in America, they don’t sell many drugs, but unlike America instead of aisles of Cheetos and cards, it’s fruit, pasta, prosciutto and wine). Anyway, it seems that you must weigh the fruit and take a ticket BEFORE you get to the register – they have no ability to do this while you are trying to pay. Much sign language made the day, and I went back to weigh my fresh peaches and take my ticket, and waited in line again at the register. Rich commemorated my successful shopping with this photo.

Snack in hand, it was smooth riding by fast train from Rome to Naples in first class. Free juice, nice seats, comfy ride…travel in style. Part two of the journey from Naples to Sorrento was more nerve-wracking. Guide books, fellow tourists and common knowledge all indicated that the Naples train station, where we had to make a connection, is absolutely notorious for pickpockets and thieves. With our luggage we felt like sitting ducks. We counted 3 “sharks” circling the fish, and watched their practiced signals and eye contact for pointing out the “marks” – luckily the train came then, and with the advice of our tour book, we quickly hopped the car right beyond the conductor, where things are more safe. We actually made it to Sorrento with all our belongings intact. And once in Sorrento…beauty reigns…and the pockets picked are only for tourist prices for the gelato, cappuccino and limoncello. Sorrento is famous for lemons, and there are trees full of fruit everywhere you look…but unlike America, where it would turn into lemon meringue pie and lemonade, here its limoncello…a lemon based liquor that is sweet and potent.

It’s charming here – Sorrento sits right on a bay, is full of shops and lemon trees and vast quantities of British tourists. Dragging our luggage from the train station to the hotel was no picnic – but Rich did let me stop for gelato on the way. And once we arrive at our marble encrusted hostel, we found a very spacious room, especially for Italy – the bathroom is the size of Rhode Island - and we enjoyed dinner at a waterside ristorante.